Crema Volteada (Peruvian Flan) by Sandra Plevisani

Crema volteada and flan are very similar but have subtle differences. Traditional Peruvian crema volteada is denser, firmer and less jiggly, with a creamier, more compact texture because it uses more eggs (6–8 whole eggs per liter of milk). Spanish or Mexican flan is softer, jigglier and more delicate, with fewer eggs and sometimes gelatin. Crema volteada is baked in a water bath directly in the caramel-lined mold, while some flans are cooked on the stovetop. The flavor is practically the same: sweet, with caramel and vanilla. In Peru we say “crema volteada”; in other countries, “flan”. Both are delicious desserts topped with liquid caramel.

Holes or bubbles in crema volteada happen when the mixture has too much air or the oven was too hot. To avoid them: 1) whisk the eggs gently; don't use an electric mixer, which adds a lot of air. 2) Mix with folding movements, not vigorously. 3) Strain the mixture before pouring it into the mold to remove bubbles. 4) Let it rest for 5 minutes and skim the bubbles off the surface with a spoon. 5) Bake at a low temperature (150–160 °C) in a water bath with hot water reaching halfway up the mold. 6) Don't open the oven while it bakes. A perfect crema volteada should have a smooth, creamy texture with no air pockets.

Crema volteada bakes in a water bath at 160 °C for 50–70 minutes, depending on the size of the mold. An individual mold (6–8 oz) takes 35–45 minutes. A medium mold (1 liter) takes 60–70 minutes. A large mold (1.5–2 liters) can take up to 90 minutes. The crema is ready when the center still wobbles slightly when you gently move the mold but is no longer liquid. There should be no bubbles at the edges. A toothpick inserted near the edge should come out clean, but the center can be slightly moist (it finishes cooking with the residual heat). If you overbake it, it will have a scrambled-egg texture and the surface will crack. Let it cool and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

Technically you can bake crema volteada without a water bath, but you risk a lumpy texture, cracks or uneven cooking. The water bath provides gentle, moist heat that cooks the custard evenly. If you don't have a large enough tray for a water bath, you can: 1) bake at a VERY low temperature (140 °C); it will work but take longer. 2) Cook it in a pressure cooker: 15 minutes at high pressure (excellent results). 3) Steam it in an electric rice cooker lined with parchment paper (40–50 minutes). 4) Use a slow cooker on LOW for 2–3 hours. But if you want the perfectly smooth, creamy texture, the traditional oven water bath is unbeatable.

Caramel turns too hard when it is overcooked or when it crystallizes. For a perfect liquid caramel: 1) use refined white sugar (not brown sugar or panela). 2) Add 2–3 tablespoons of water to the sugar at the start to control the cooking. 3) Cook over medium heat, not high. 4) DON'T stir; just swirl the pan. 5) Cook until it is a medium amber color (not too dark, or it will be bitter and hard). 6) Add a few drops of lime juice or vinegar to prevent crystallization. 7) Immediately pour it into the mold and tilt it to coat the bottom and sides. The caramel hardens as it cools, but it should melt completely when you turn out the custard after baking. If it is still too hard, warm the mold slightly before turning it out.

Homemade crema volteada keeps for 3–5 days in the refrigerator, well covered with plastic wrap or in an airtight container. It must always be kept refrigerated because it contains eggs and milk. The liquid caramel stays perfect during that time. Freezing is not recommended because the texture is ruined when it thaws (the water separates and it turns lumpy). For the best flavor, crema volteada is ideal after resting in the refrigerator for at least 6–8 hours, or better overnight, which lets the flavors blend and the texture set perfectly. Serve it well chilled, straight from the refrigerator. If it smells sour or you see mold, throw it away immediately.